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First step in fitting the choke cables is to remove the
gubbins (sorry to get technical on you) from the carb. In the bottom of
the hole, under the spring, there are two little bits of metal used to
lock the end of the cable. Either use long-nosed pliers to get them out,
or enlist the help of 15 friends, and turn the trike upside down and shake
it. Mind you, this might not work as they are a tight fit so, on balance,
I'd use the pliers. |
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Here's the gubbins assembled on the end of the cable, with
the little locking bits in place. |
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There aren't any instructions I could find on assembling the
choke lever, but there is a pretty clear photo. The handle is riveted
through some nylon bushes, with a large washer on the end. Note there are
small and large concentric bushes, but the loops in my cable ends were
small enough that I didn't need the larger ones. |
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Don't forget to put the cables on before fitting the
rivet! |
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The assembly is now fitted to the seat frame, utilising an
existing screw which holds the webbing in place, with another hole drilled
to accept a rivet.
Can't find a little bolt to put the knob on the handle anywhere. It'll
probably turn up 5 minutes after I buy one. |
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To fit the cover to the hand throttle, a little adaptation
is required. Had to file a bit off the cover (Note the cunning placement
of a file in the picture, so you don't have to read these words) |
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Originally, the trike had two cables from the hand throttle,
but now only has one. The remaining bracket for the second cable prevents
the case fitting, so off it came.
Shame that saw doesn't move up and down on it's own. |
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Here's the finished assembly.
Probably the hardest part of the whole build to date was fixing that
'sense of operation' sticker. Getting the sticky out of the hole in the
'A' in MAX took ages - not to mention getting the word to transfer from
the backing in the first place.
There is supposed to be the word 'Min' at the other end, but they got
mucked up in the transfer process.
Oh well - they don't call me Mad Max for nothing....or indeed at all. |
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Cutting the hole for the front strut was very, very nerve
racking. However, liberal use of masking tape and pencil marks, then
incredibly careful application of my router, did the job in no time. |
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Ever tried to drill a 10 mm hole in fibreglass? The drill
snatches and rips the edges. I ended up drilling 4mm then 6 then 8 then 10
on the other holes.
Putting the rivet in, the gun slipped and scratched the pod - aaarghhhh! |
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That windscreen will be just fine once the protective film
is peeled off.
It has six twist lock fasteners, each of which must be riveted in
place. I don't think I've ever been so careful as I was marking up the
holes. If I'd gotten it wrong, I'd have had to glass it back in again and
start over.
I have a nasty suspicion the windscreen may have to be removed to get
the front strut out - I'll report back tomorrow. |
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Yeah....now we're cooking!
Damn - just noticed I've still to fit the wheel spats.
One thing I noticed today - it's going to be an absolute bugger getting
the bottom bolt out of the front strut once the instrument panel is in
place. It's hard enough now, with it all wide open. |
